29th June Turbulence

Boente to O Pedrosa 28kms

In 2023, an impressive 404,175 pilgrims embraced the Camino on foot, showcasing the enduring allure of the traditional approach. The most up to date statistics indicate the popularity of the main routes as follows with the Camino Frances being far and away the most popular with 220,000 (but with over half of those walkers at 130,000 just doing the last 100km from Sarria). 

Next most popular is the Camino Portuguese at 88,000 followed by its compatriot the Portuguese Coastal at 53,000. Trailing way behind in the popularity stakes are the two that I have undertaken the Camino del Norte at 20,500 and the Camino Primitivo at 20,000. Approximately a 10th of the Camino Frances Keep that in mind as you read on.

Today the little stream of tightly knit pilgrims that formed the 'Primitivo Possy' flowed into the full force of the Camino Frances river; those that had spent 30 days walking it's entire length from St Jean Pierport (and who looked as if they had) and the 'Glamino' set just walking the 100km from Sarria (who also looked as if they were.) And I think it's fair to say there has been some turbulence as the very different and distinct groups merged together for the last two days to Santiago. 

Said turbulence is not affecting me I hasten to add, I am quite content in my being, where I  am and whats happening around me and to coin a phrase I am going with the flow. But amongst my Primitivo buddies, well it's a different matter. 

Swamped by the lack of unfamiliar faces, one admitted to feeling lost and lonely this morning despite walking surrounded by more people than he has done for the past 12 days. Another felt that the nature and spirit of the Camino had been changed and even damaged by the sudden dilution of camino 'family' whom he is struggling to leave. Even though it is his plans that separated himself from the group and determined we would not arrive in the city together. Another's thoughts were related to domestic issues that await him when he gets home next week.

And it is different. From having to work out where to stay, there are now more albergues than you could ever need. From having to carry enough food and water with you for long stretches, there are now bars and cafes every couple of kms. Today after people in the albergue started to get up and walk at ridiculous O'clock (4.30am!!!) we ended up stopping so often to kill a little time, I thought that the walk we were on had been renamed the 'coffeemino' overnight.

Tonight I am staying in a different  place from the others. A bit of time and space to reflect and process what this all means. Tomorrow is the final day, a last 20km into Santiago. I have more doubt it will another up and out before sparrows fart. But with the city almost in sight, I can understand the adrenaline fueled desire to get there. 

I mean it will have been a week since the Glamino gang have had their hair cut, beards trimmed and nails manicured (or perhaps they had someone flown in mid route). And they probably have appointments to keep with Pablo and Alejandro in order to look their best before collecting their Compostella.