4th June Monks
Izarbide to Monastery Zenarruza 28kms
It might not come as a surprise to discover that some of the hospitality offered to pilgrims on the way to Santiago comes from the religious community.
Tonight, at the end of what has been a day of contrasts, with killer climbs, lovely contours, quagmire descents and an 18km stretch with not a single place to buy food, drink or even pitable water, I shall avail of the sanctuary offered by the monks at the monesterio de Zenarruza. Not that I have seen any monk like figures since arriving unkess of course they are incognito and hiding in plain sight.
Operating on a donation basis it is as one might expect more in keeping with the 16th century when the monestary was built rather than some of the very swish places I have stayed in so far. Indeed some of my fellow pilgrims are a little lost without a WiFi password but it comes with the territory, and sometimes it good to have to step back from the digital world.
After a communal meal, those who wanted were invited to attend Compline prayers in the church. Held in Spanish, it did not matter that I did not follow a great deal of the liturgy, it is something that has stood the test of time down through the centuries.
As the voices of the two monks (from what I later discovered was a community of just four) alternated back and forth, filling the space with a sense of tradition, history and reverance, it was lovely just to 'be' after a long day of walking during which I crossed over the 100km covered
A day that was rounded off with a pilgrim's blessing, as onebof the monks prayed for all ourbsafety and serenity as we travelled on our journey. I would have settled for a prayer to make the route a bit less lumpy but his ticked the box just nicely.
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