30th June Muted

O Pedrosa to Santiago de Compostella 19km

After unquestionably the worst nights sleep of the entire Camino, due to a gaggle of Spanish 'Glamettes' sat talking underneath the window to the dorm, it was an even earlier start today, with me out on the road to meet Bryant at 4.45am. 

The last days walk into Santiago, a 19km stretch, is not known for its beauty or scenic sights and so the idea was to just get into the city as early as possible. And whilst part of me doesn't want this adventure to end, another part of me knows it's coming to an end and so just wants it finished. After all no matter how enjoyable it's been, and it has been fantastic, 30 days is a long time to walk every day.

Due to the pre dawn departure the first 90 minutes or so was along torch lit forest trails, with the barking of chained up dogs, chorus of birds, sounds of Korean tourists being dragged into the undergrowth and savaged by wild animals and the thundering footsteps of Eric (who was trying to catch us up) , piercing the darkness 

Nothing was open until a much needed coffee just 7km from the city. Again I stepped off the main Camino trail at Mont Gozo, to go and see the two pilgrim statues that overlook the city. Seven years ago I was the only one present, this time I at least had Bryant and Eric for company. Quite why more people don't make the 5 min detour to seethe is a mystery and in many ways a blessing. The peace of the moment looking out as a mist shrouded city was beautiful.

Our walk and chatter was perhaps best desribed as muted, the trail almost over and perhaps the realisation that it was never the destination of Santiago that was important, but the route by which we had arrived and the people we had met on the way. 

It certainly didn't feel as overwhelming and emotional as it had done 7 years ago. Don't get me wrong it's still incredibly special, a wonderful achievement and something that I am very proud of , just more muted this time round.

Arriving just after 9.30am, the square in front of the cathedral began to fill up with, day trippers, tour groups and visibly relieved, tired but ultimately joyful pilgrims including some lovely surprises. Heike and James, Josep and Maralene from Brazil and most surprisingly of all, Maya and Nity, the Spanish mother and daughter who I had walked with for several days on the del Norte, and who arrived yesterday having dropped onto the Camino Frances and completed that from Leon. What a serendipitous moment.

Artistic pictures were composed, Compostella certificate collection considered, accommodation located, bags deposited, and walking stick laid aside. Laid aside that is until next time.