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3rd July Transforming

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Porto Despite fears that today might in fact be one day too long, it has in fact been a good day, one that got off to a promising start when I realised that Portugal and Spain don't keep the same time.  Not that my body clock noticed as it still seeming to think I need to be awake at 6am, but it was a chance to go down to the banks of the Douro and wish some of those setting out early on the Portuguese Coastal Camino a blessed experience, the initial route from Porto Cathedral passing alongside the river. And after a breakfast in the hostel that would not have been out of place on a cruise ship, I did what my body has done for the past 30 days; I walked the initial 7km of that particular journey to Foz do Douro. A glutton for punishment or unable to let the opportunity go...you decide. Again it was one that brought back memories of my time here with TOM, when we took a ride out on the tram and a slow meander back. At the moment I have escaped the heat of midday within the ...
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2nd July Done

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  Santiago to Porto It's official. I am done. Physically, mentally, emotionally. So much so that I forgot to post my entry for coming into Santiago so you might have to back track a day...sorry. Yesterday I had a farewell lunch with Robert, Bryant, Matt, Eric and Dimitri, and then in the evening I said hello and waved goodbye to Ernesto, Stefano and several of their friends through another meal facilitated by Google Translate. That's it I thought, camino complete. Then this morning I discovered Dimitri in staying in the same hostel as me so we chatted over breakfast. In Praca de Obradoiro, where I had 40 mins or so listening to some 'tunes' as today's first wave of pilgrims arrived, I ran into Ashley, one of the American group, I had walked alongside on the Primitivo.  Then at the bus station who should be there but Bryant and Matt on their way to Finisterre, so there was time was quick last hug. And not to be left out of the act, I hadn't even got on m...
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1st July Waves

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  Santiago  If the word for yesterday was muted, today is has been waves. Waves of emotion that hit me hard almost as soon as I awoke. So much so that to my surprise I found myself trying to write this in cathedral square or Praza do Obradoiro, to give it is proper title, through a veil of tears. There has been waves of happiness at seeing familiar faces from others parts of the caminos arrive in the city...Robert back from his solitary night at Mont Gozo, Luka, Ernesto and Stefano from the del Norte, Paul and Catherine, plus the American group including Donna. Waves of nostalgia for what these past 30 days and 750 plus km have meant. Waves of pride picking up my Compostella certificates. Waves of grace as I received communion (I figured having walked 460 miles I was 'catholic' enough). Waves of transcendence watching the Botafumerio swing high into the vaulted ceiling of the cathedral. Waves of missing TOM.  And there was wave after wave of different Camino families that...
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30th June Muted

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O Pedrosa to Santiago de Compostella 19km After unquestionably the worst nights sleep of the entire Camino, due to a gaggle of Spanish 'Glamettes' sat talking underneath the window to the dorm, it was an even earlier start today, with me out on the road to meet Bryant at 4.45am.  The last days walk into Santiago, a 19km stretch, is not known for its beauty or scenic sights and so the idea was to just get into the city as early as possible. And whilst part of me doesn't want this adventure to end, another part of me knows it's coming to an end and so just wants it finished. After all no matter how enjoyable it's been, and it has been fantastic, 30 days is a long time to walk every day. Due to the pre dawn departure the first 90 minutes or so was along torch lit forest trails, with the barking of chained up dogs, chorus of birds, sounds of Korean tourists being dragged into the undergrowth and savaged by wild animals and the thundering footsteps of Eric (who was t...
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29th June Turbulence

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Boente to O Pedrosa 28kms In 2023, an impressive 404,175 pilgrims embraced the Camino on foot, showcasing the enduring allure of the traditional approach. The most up to date statistics indicate the popularity of the main routes as follows with the Camino Frances being far and away the most popular with 220,000 (but with over half of those walkers at 130,000 just doing the last 100km from Sarria).  Next most popular is the Camino Portuguese at 88,000 followed by its compatriot the Portuguese Coastal at 53,000. Trailing way behind in the popularity stakes are the two that I have undertaken the Camino del Norte at 20,500 and the Camino Primitivo at 20,000. Approximately a 10th of the Camino Frances Keep that in mind as you read on. Today the little stream of tightly knit pilgrims that formed the 'Primitivo Possy' flowed into the full force of the Camino Frances river; those that had spent 30 days walking it's entire length from St Jean Pierport (and who looked as if th...
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28th June Anomia

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Ponte de Ferriere to Boente 26km Okay I'll give you a moment to Google that. And to be honest that's what I had to do as I've been struggling for the second day running to find or express a word for today, so I thought there must be a word for that. And there is. For the purists amongst us, today is the last day on the Primitivo, last not because I have reached Santiago (still 40 plus km to go) but because it is the point at which the pure Primitivo route from Oviedo merges with, slips into and is absorbed by the Camino Frances. (more tomorrow). As such it's been an interesting stage but at the same time as this is stage 28 it's not really stood out for any particular reason. Another 25k plus day despite a start that was delayed by the need to grab breakfast at last night's albergue because of a lack of refreshments points on route.  Misty beginnings, country roads, forest trails, wooded paths, past wind turbines,  crossing streams via stone bridges, someti...
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27th June Balance

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Lugo to Ponte Ferreirre 30km Today's word around which to base my musings hasn't been the easiest to decide upon. Sometimes it just drops into my consciousness without too much mental effort, today it has been more of a wrestling match. Lugo was in many ways a jolt to the system, coming into a large town/city so close to Santiago. It also marked the milestone of 100km left, but more of that in a day or two. It's a point where some people are pausing on their Camino for a day's rest / chance to explore.  It's also been the moment where people's plans and timetables for reaching Santiago and what they might have time to do / visit after that has been thrown into sharp focus, with even the die hard non bookers now booking shead. Even I have been forced to plan for Santiago, plan for bus journeys to Porto and check in on line for flights back home in exactly a weeks time.  And perhaps understanderbly having walked in step with others over the course of this C...
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